Villa's of the Grand Canal


When cruising down the Grand Canal, it’s hard not to notice the many beautiful facades (fronts) of the Venetian palaces! But the architecture you’re looking at isn’t just lovely — it tells a story unique to Venice.
From their beautiful windows to their tall, elegant facades, every piece of a Venetian palazzo has a reason behind it. Here’s how to identify and understand the architecture of Venice’s palaces, along with some of it's history.

Venice’s architecture is Gothic — and Eastern

One thing to notice when you’re looking at Venice’s architecture in general, with its elegant, pointed arches and lacy details, is just how different it looks from the architecture you see in, say, Rome or Florence.
Architecture of a Renaissance palazzo in Venice
Built at the end of the 15th century, Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo mixes both Gothic and Renaissance styles
Unlike those cities, Venice was at its most prosperous during the Middle Ages. By the 12th century, it was already a powerful republic. And at that time, Gothic-style architecture was the trend. Unsurprisingly, therefore, Venetian architecture became largely Gothic architecture, with its asymmetricality and emphasis on light. After the Renaissance hit, with its focus on rationalism and balance, architects started to incorporate some of its hallmarks (like rounded, rather than pointed, arches). Even so, they’d continue to blend Renaissance innovations with that same Gothic style.
Plus, unlike other Italian cities, Venice had close ties to the East thanks to its vast trade networks. A lot of Venetian architecture, therefore, was taken from Byzantine and Moorish styles. Just check out this photo of the Ca’ d’Oro, one of Venice’s loveliest palaces, built in the early 15th century:
Reading a Venice palazzo
The Ca' d'Oro palazzo is a great example of how Venetian architecture drew on both the Byzantine and Moorish
You can see the inflected arch above, which likely originally came from the Moors. And on the bottom, you can see the pointed arch, always a hint that what you’re looking at is Gothic.
Meanwhile, the crenellations that you see, topping many of Venice’s palaces like a row of lace, were often seen topping ancient Greek temples — but the ones on the Ca d’Oro have a Moorish style.

When you’re building on water: brick, stucco, wood, and all that glass

Venice’s setting on the water may have made a lot of sense for the mercantile city — but it was also dangerous when it came to building! The area’s land was extremely soft, as well as subject to the tides, meaning that heavy or inflexible materials were very risky. Plus, all that moisture was hard on building materials.
Many palaces in Venice used a lot of wood in their architecture
The painted, wooden ceiling of the chapel in the Ca' d'Oro
One solution was to build in brick. Much lighter than stone, bricks also had the benefit of being smaller and placed side-by-side — so if the earth moved beneath the structure, the building could (to some extent!) shift with it. Plus, bricks don’t retain moisture, always a help in a water-logged city. That brick would then usually be faced with stucco, protecting them even more from the weather.
The problem with having to keep buildings light also led to using a lot of wood. While buildings elsewhere might use stone for their foundations and vaults, for example, Venetians would use the lighter wood. That also explains the painted, wooden-beamed ceilings that you often see in the palaces.
Finally, other Italian cities shied away from using too much glass in their palaces, given its expense and how vulnerable it was to those who might wish the wealthy residents harm. Thanks to Venice’s setting on the lagoon, though, it was very safe from enemies. Meanwhile, the nearby island of Murano had an extensive glass-making industry, meaning that the material was much cheaper than elsewhere. The result? Lots of windows!

Why Venetian palaces don’t face the streets

One odd characteristic of Venice’s palaces is that they don’t face the streets… the palaces face canals! Of course, since Venice’s canals were its streets, this makes sense. (And keep in mind that many of the streets that you walk on in modern-day Venice didn’t exist for most of Venetian history. When the main train station was built in the 19th century, the city filled in many canals and created piazzas to help out all of the new visitors who didn’t have their own boats!).

The Bello Figura

Lions on the balcony of a palazzo in Venice
You can't get much more intricate -- or Venetian -- than this balcony with its watchful lions!
Because of how many people would see your canal-facing facade, you’d make sure that your facade showed not just style, but wealth. Showing how rich you were was especially important in Venice — since it was a merchant city, money and power were closely intertwined.
At the same time, a noble family’s hands were somewhat tied. To have some architectural cohesion (and to keep people from parading their wealth around too much!), laws restricted ornamental statuary and other over-the-top touches.
But, of course, families got around this.Ornate carvings showed off an (expensive!) artisan’s skill. And, although you had to be careful of using too much of a heavy material like stone or marble, it might be used as an accent and a further display of your wealth. Expensive red porphyry roundels, for example, might stud the facade of your home, and even though it was probably small, your courtyard might use tiles of precious stones.

The Ca d'Oro courtyard might not be huge, but it is filled with precious stones

Making use of space

Other architectural features of Venetian palaces often come about for practical reasons — like lack of space. While noble families could build sprawling palaces in cities like Rome and Florence, that Venice was an island meant that land simply… ran out! With space at a premium, even wealthy families had to compensate by building up, not out. Venetian palaces, therefore, usually look tall and elegant, not broad and formidable.
With every inch counting, an expansive courtyard or garden, features of so many palaces elsewhere, was out. Instead, Venetian palaces boasted balconies to allow their residents to get a bit of air. The lack of open space inside could also make the buildings very dark and dreary — so builders opened up the palaces’ facades with big windows, loggias and arcades, letting light into the interior of the house.
Front of the Ca d'Oro
Palaces like the Ca d'Oro were often opened up in the front, letting in light and air
Two gates into a Venetian palace
Twin water entrances lead into the Palazzo Bernardo, a way to save space
Another way around the lack of land was by building “double palaces.” Instead of every family building their own house, two parts of a noble clan might live in one palazzo, splitting it by each having its own water gate — the reason why you sometimes see two doors onto the water in the same building.

Did you ever notice all those big chimneys

One other oddity of Venice’s palaces is that they have big, funny-shaped chimneys, usually in the form of an upside-down cone or pyramid. The reason is simple: Fire was a constant threat in any city, but for a city built on water, it was all the more frightening. Plus, with all of those wooden ceilings and beams, it would spread quickly!
As a result, the chimneys were designed to keep embers from escaping and burning down the palazzo you’d put so much effort into building.

Cicchetti, Another Eating Option for Venice


It can be a little tough to find Italian food in Venice that’s good, authentic, and doesn’t break the bank. That’s why we want to let you in on a little secret: Venice’scicchetti tradition. (And stay tuned for a later post on our favorite restaurants in Venice!).
Pronounced “chee-KET-eeh,” cicchetti are Venice’s answer to Milan’s aperitivo and to Spain’s tapas. They’re small plates of food, usually nibbled over glasses of wine and among friends in the evening or at lunchtime. Served at bàcari (“BAH-car-eeh”), small, local bars hidden all over Venice, they’re also cheap, ranging from about €1 to €3. What’s on offer depends on the place; some bàcari lean toward fried offerings, while others specialize in fresh fish, meats, cheeses… the list goes on.
Try it as a pre-dinner snack, or make a whole meal out of it by ordering several plates. We like the idea of a cicchetti “crawl” ourselves. Especially because your meal of cicchetti probably comes cheaper, better, and in a more local atmosphere than food in most restaurants in Venice!

Cicchetti at a bar in Venice
Some tips: First, for an evening cicchetti crawl, make sure you start early (at about 6pm), since many bàcari close at 8pm or 9pm. Of course, if you’re just getting used to the Italian tradition of eating at 8 or 9pm, then that earliness might not be so bad!
Second, if you’re someone who can’t stand crowds or the possibility of having to wait in line and/or stand while eating, then be prepared to sacrifice—or at least seek out bàcari that are off the beaten path. Bàcari are where Venetians come to socialize and relax, and some of the more popular places, including those listed below, can get quite packed… which we think adds to your people-watching potential, but can be a little frustrating if you were hoping for a quiet, tranquil dinner!
Just to get you started, here are some of Venice’s most-loved places to find delicious cicchetti:
Ca’ d’Oro/Alla Vedova. Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 3912. One of the most famous bàcari in Venice, this one’s both away from the city’s crowds and on the cheap (€1) end of things, ideal if you’re on a budget. Don’t miss the polpette, meatballs made of pork.
La Cantina. Calle San Felice, 3689. A stone’s throw from Alla Vedova, La Cantina features inventive dishes, using fresh ingredients like beef tongue or fresh ricotta. A local favorite.

This isn't just a popular area for tourists... it has some of the best bàcari in town!
All’Arco. Calle Arco, San Polo 436. Another one of Venice’s most-loved spots, All’Arco, near the Ponte Rialto, is packed at lunchtime with shoppers from the local fish market. Everything from calamari to liver to shrimp is on offer, and if it’s available, don’t miss the hot sandwich of boiled beef sausage and mustard.
Do Mori. Sestiere San Polo 429, Calle dei Do Mori. Myth has it that Casanova frequented this bàcaro, also near the Rialto Bridge. Even if he didn’t, it’s still thought to be the oldest in Venice, dating back to 1462. Ask for the “francobollo” (postage stamp)—a tiny sandwich with various fillings, it’s the house specialty.

Cicchetti at one of the bacari in Venice
Do Spade
Do Spade. Calle delle Do Spade, 19 S. Polo 860. Another bàcaro dating back to the 15th century, Do Spade has lots of seafood on offer, as well as a variety of vegetable and cheese spreads.
Cantinone–già Schiavi.Ponte San Trovaso, Dorsoduro 992. This family-run bàcaro, located across from a gondola workshop, boasts raw fish, meats, more than 30 wines available by the glass, and much more. Crowded with Venetians in the evening!
Al Ponte. Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina. One of the cheapest bàcari—and, therefore, places to eat—in all of Venice, Al Ponte has pasta and fish plates and a welcoming atmosphere.
Banco Giro. Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122. A Grand Canal view, a variety of cheeses, fish, and wine, and a lively atmosphere. What’s not to like?

When biking through Padua be sure to visit the Scrovegni Chapel


Scrovegni Chapel, Padua


Giotto had to be creative to overcome the obstacles caused by the chapel's architecture -- you can even see how he extended the wall paintings up into the ceiling to try to balance it all!
Located an easy 25- or 45-minute train ride from Venice, Padua has a lot to boast about: mythical ties to the city of Troy, the second-oldest university in Italy (and one where Galileo taught)… and an incredible 14th-century chapel that’s one of Italy’s top sites for pilgrims. Art history pilgrims, that is.
The chapel was built by Enrico Scrovegni in 1302, after his father’s practice of lending out money at super-high interest rates — something seen as so sinful, it landed the man in Dante’s Inferno — filled him with such guilt he built a chapel with the family’s earnings. (He dedicated it to to the “Virgin of Charity”).
Scrovegni commissioned the Florentine painter Giotto for the frescoes. The result is the earliest work that’s accepted as being by Giotto’s own hand. For art historians, that means it’s the keystone for deciding if later pieces (like those in the Basilica of San Francesco, below) were by Giotto, too. Like Michelangelo more than two centuries later, Giotto had to grapple with how to lay his fresco cycle out on a barrel-vaulted building. And, like Michelangelo, it’s fair to say he did, well, a pretty good job!
Expulsion from the Temple, in the Arena Chapel in Padua, Italy
The space on the right, planned that way by Giotto, makes it look like poor Joachim is being thrust into an empty, lonely abyss
The whole story of the New Testament is laid out here, starting with the heartbreaking Expulsion of Joachim from the Temple. The panel shows Joachim, the Virgin’s father, being literally pushed out of the temple by a priest, Joachim’s offering rejected because he remains childless; the anguish on Joachim’s face is palpable.
The narrative continues through to Christ’s life, with the famous frescoes of the Lamentation andKiss of Judas.
One of Giotto's most famous frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel of Padua
Giotto was a master of emotion -- just look at the anguish on Mary's face
Don’t miss the Last Judgment, either, a fantasy of all the horrific tortures that await the damned. Few paintings in art history could be more frightening! This was one piece that influenced Michelangelo for his own version of the Last Judgment.
Part of Giotto's frescoes in Padua's Arena Chapel
A detail of Giotto's Last Judgment, complete with a monster eating the damned. Eek!
In all of the frescoes, you can see just why Giotto was so groundbreaking, he’s known as one of the fathers of the Renaissance. Giotto’s use of space and volume, and his two-point perspective scheme (which unites both painting and architecture in the tricky-to-paint chapel), show an understanding of perspective that heralded the beginning of the Renaissance.
It’s the emotion of the figures, though, that really set Giotto apart, making him one of the only artists of his day who knew how to paint saints to look and interact like real people. And, almost 800 years later, Giotto’s ability to invoke emotion still takes your breath away.